This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

White Slabs

  • 119 - White Crack

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1964
    Rating: 0

    At the start of White Slabs is a crack starting at half-height. Climb the wall beneath this, and finish up the crack.

  • 120 - Goon

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (Pre-1965)
    Rating: 1

    The next crack, with its crux at the top.

  • 121 - Crater Traitor

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1984
    Rating: 0

    Very bold climbing up the wall right of Goon. Climb a vague groove which gets progressively harder, to a RURP at 10 metres. Wobble up and go right past this to a peg and climb the wall on the left (crux) to the break. Bolt belay above.

  • 122 - Red Flowers are Red

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1983
    Rating: 0

    Another serious route, though at a more amenable grade. Climb the wall directly just left of Dandelion Groove, via some small pod-shaped depressions.

  • 123 - Dandelion Groove

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1963
    Rating: 0

    The first groove on White Slabs is gained easily from the left, then followed to the top.

  • 124 - Prickpocket

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1977
    Rating: 0

    Just right is an obvious crack in the top wall. Climb directly up the lower wall to gain and finish up this crack.

  • 125 - Snakebite

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1992
    Rating: 0

    Climb the centre of the wall left of Manglewurzle to some easy ledges, then continue to a peg beneath an overlap. Pass this about one metre on the left of the peg to a good hold above the overlap (on right), then go back left up the headwall.

  • 126 - Manglewurzle Rib

    Grade: 4b,5a | First Ascent: -1964
    Rating: 0

    Climbs the rib in two pitches.

  • 126.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent:

    The crack below the rib on the right is started from the left and climbed past a peg at six metres to a small grass ledge.

  • 126.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent:

    Go right to the rib, then take the crack on the right to the top.

  • 127 - Isle of White

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 3

    One of the best routes of this grade in the quarry. Adequate protection and consistently interesting climbing make this a classic route with a big feel. Follow the unprotected wall left of White Slabs Bunt to the break, then continue directly to an obvious undercut; pass this, then trend rightwards to finish over the overhang as for W.S.B.

  • 128 - White Slabs Bunt

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1971
    Rating: 3

    Often referred to as the best route at Wilton. It certainly is one of the most substantial climbs in the quarry. The quality of the climbing and the variety of moves make it an essential route for anyone climbing at this grade. Start six metres left of Remembrance Corner, below an overlap at eight metres. Climb to the overlap (two pegs), then move left and surmount the left side of the overhang and continue to the girdle break. At the break move right for about three metres (peg) and climb the flake crack above to two exposed mantels which give access to a shallow scoop. Pass the capping roof via a crack, then finish on the left.

  • 128a - White Lightnin`

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1984
    Rating: 0

    A short variation on White Slabs Bunt. From the second peg at the right side of the overhang, climb directly to the girdle break.

  • 129 - Strawberry Kiss

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 1

    This route supersedes Thin White Line. Climb the thin crack just left of the corner to the break. Arrange protection in the flake of White Slabs Bunt and from the break, launch up the committing wall above past sustained fingery climbing to a move left at a thin crack, and thus relief!

  • 130 - Remembrance Corner

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1964
    Rating: 0

    The prominent corner groove running the full-height of the crag, passing a tree near the top.