This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1985
Rating: 0
Start two metres right of a large two-block pinnacle and climb a crack which turns into a groove.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1983
Rating: 1
Climb the wall one metre farther right by an exquisite series of moves on rugosities.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1972
Rating: 0
The loose, grassy, block-filled groove on the right, about 25 metres past Christmas Chimney.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1980
Rating: 2
Reasonable and interesting climbing up an improbable-looking wall. Start just right of Grovel, climb rightwards then go up on good rugosities to a ledge. Finish leftwards easily over blocks.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1972
Rating: 0
The narrow protruding rib on the right.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1972
Rating: 0
The obvious left-slanting crack, past a tree.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1971
Rating: 1
The block-filled crack from a ledge on the right.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1972
Rating: 0
Climb Jaws for six metres until it is possible to reach a ledge on the right. Mantel on to this, then traverse right to a large ledge and finish over an overhang.Variation Finish: the hanging corner above the mantelshelf.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1980
Rating: 0
Right again is an undercut slab whose left edge is formed by an awesome off-width crack; climb the crack by whatever means you see fit, to a scoop on the left and finish easily up this.
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1982
Rating: 0
Start two metres to the right and climb to the right side of the higher overhang guarding the undercut slab. Make an evil mantel on to the slab above (peg) and climb the wall (peg) using two shallow grooves. Traverse right to an in-situ belay on Silently Screaming.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1974
Rating: 1
The corner at the right side of the undercut slab, passing an overhang at five metres.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1982
Rating: 2
A technically demanding little test-piece, which gives a well-protected little gem of a route. Climb the arête right of Deodand. Start in the short corner right of the arête and climb up to a letter-box, then traverse left to the arête. Move up to peg and continue past a second peg to an in-situ belay on the ledge.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1971
Rating: 0
The pillar and blocky groove on the right.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1985
Rating: 0
A boulder problem up the wall one metre right, past a bucket.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1971
Rating: 0
The short flake just to the right proves strenuous.
Grade: 6c | First Ascent: -1986
Rating: 2
Desperate climbing with a bold start. Start four metres right of the corner go up and climb a thin, blind flake to a sloping ledge. With feet on the ledge (peg) move right into a short, shallow groove and up this to the break (bolt above on the right). Finish up Erythrocyte.
Grade: 6c | First Ascent: -1999
Rating:
A direct finish to Pit and the Pendulum.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1964
Rating: 0
Start three metres right of The Pit and the Pendulum and climb the pillar above to a loose finish over blocks (bolt on left).
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1982
Rating: 3
A route that I usually start cool and methodically, but always end up desperately slapping one on for the finishing break (Geoff Hibbert). Originally pegged as Vaccination. Climb the slab on the right to a ledge, then move right and follow the thin, slightly kinked, left-leaning crack above to the horizontal break. Lower off on Friends to avoid the loose top, then retrieve them afterwards.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -2001
Rating:
Climb the crack just right of Sleepwalk to a large niche. Move up and leftwards until it is possible to hand traverse into Erythrocyte and finish up this.
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1982
Rating: 2
Stick insects and masochists are amongst those most likely to succeed on this gruelling test-piece of stamina. Climb the bulging crack splitting the next wall, three metres left of the corner to a ledge. Peg belay on left.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1977
Rating: 0
Climb the off-putting corner on the right for six metres then follow the crack which branches to the left.