This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1979
Rating: 0
Climb the shallow groove in the buttress immediately to the right of the fence.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1970
Rating: 0
Thirty-five metres right of the fence is a narrow buttress. Follow the central crack by two hard mantels, trending left, then step right over the overhang to finish.
Grade: A2 | First Ascent: (Pre-1972)
Rating: 0
The thin crack one metre right, just before a short rise in the quarry floor.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1974
Rating: 0
The crackline three metres from the left edge of the buttress.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1992
Rating: 1
Start at a letter-box and climb the wall above on rugosities (side runner in Willow Wall at eight metres).
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1966
Rating: 0
Climb the most obvious crackline in the centre of the wall, to the large ledge. Traverse right and finish up the short wall behind.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1977
Rating: 0
The twin cracks two metres to the right. At the terrace step right and finish up the short wall.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1992
Rating: 0
Start at a vague crack and climb to the right side of a large ledge at five metres. Continue up the crozzly wall above using good rugosities, then finish up Asleep for Years.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1983
Rating: 0
A scrappy line up the vague cracks in the green wall one metre left of Willow Arête.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1968
Rating: 1
The right arête of the buttress. Start just left of the arête and climb up easily for five metres as for Falling Wall, then move right to the arête and follow this to the large ledge. Finish up the short wall behind.
Grade: 6c | First Ascent: -1992
Rating: 2
Climb the thin crack just left of Kurma to a small square-cut slot (good micronuts), then move left to an undercut (crux) and back right to the crack. Follow this to the break, then move one metre left and climb over the overlap to the top.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1965
Rating: 0
Start in the deep corner just right of the willows. Climb the corner to the horizontal fault, then traverse to the left arête to reach a large ledge, and finish up the wall behind.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -2001
Rating: 0
Climb the blank-looking wall midway between Kurma and Adidas to the overlap. Ascend the overlap directly, then up a groove and move right to finish.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1974
Rating: 0
The crack which starts about four metres to the right of the deep corner is followed to the horizontal break, then traverse left to the continuation corner above Kurma and use an iron spike to finish up this.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1974
Rating: 2
Start at twin cracks four metres farther right, where the ground level falls slightly. Climb up to the break, step slightly left, then surmount the overhang and continue to the top.
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1986
Rating: 1
Free climbs the old aid route Needles and Pins; three metres to the right of Puma, with two pegs. Step right at the break and climb the headwall.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1986
Rating: 1
Power up the hanging flake left of Merchant Crack, gained from that route.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1971
Rating: 0
Start three metres to the right and climb a short, shallow corner then the continuation crack to the horizontal break. Step right to finish.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1971
Rating: 0
From the top of Merchant Crack, follow an obvious traverse line leftwards until it is possible to finish up the corner of Adidas (directly above the start to Kurma).
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1986
Rating: 1
An unprotected problem taking the challenge of the narrow slab right of Merchant Crack, with the crux high up.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1992
Rating: 2
Climb the right arête on its left, with a bold crux at the top.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1966
Rating: 1
The slim corner groove round to the right of Beyond the Perimeter.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1980
Rating: 0
One metre right is a thin crack; climb this for six metres, move right, then step back left to finish.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1992
Rating: 0
One metre left of Baby Arête climb the wall.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1968
Rating: 0
The short arête on the right, and just left of the vegetated corner of Grotty Muckden, is climbed on its right-hand side.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1986
Rating: 0
The wall between Baby Arête and Grotty Muckden. Blinkers needed for this climb.
Grade: | First Ascent: -1964
Rating: 0
The second large corner past the clump of willow trees is somewhat overgrown. Climb it to a muddy landing.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -2001
Rating:
Climb the wall between Grotty Muckden and Pot-Pourri on rugosities.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1965
Rating: 1
A good route involving bold climbing up the wall right of Grotty Muckden. Start in the corner and follow an obvious line of holds up and rightwards across the wall, culminating in a couple of thought-provoking moves to reach the break. Go right along the break to finish up a short corner.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1982
Rating: 0
Start three metres to the right of Grotty Muckden and climb directly to a vague left-facing groove and the break above. Finish direct; unprotected.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1992
Rating: 0
Climb the unprotected wall midway between Pot-Pourri and Lady Grinning Soul.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1980
Rating: 0
From two metres left of Valine, climb up a shallow right-leading ramp to gain a crack. Move left and go up to join Tryptophane. Finish up that route.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1974
Rating: 0
Climb the obvious crackline nine metres right of the corner, until it is possible to step left to gain the horizontal fault. Finish as Pot-Pourri.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1977
Rating: 0
Move right on to the wall from six metres up Valine, traverse right for two metres to a shallow depression, then finish straight up past the break.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1985
Rating: 0
Boldly and delicately attack the wall right of Valine and finish just right of Land. The crux is low down, but it is still scary and committing.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1980-82)
Rating: 1
The twin cracks at the foot of an obvious grassy cone. Climb these stepping left at the break to finish as for Boy Racer.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1977
Rating: 1
From the top of the grassy cone go up to the left of a pair of large pockets, then continue up the wall above.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1964
Rating: 1
Start one metre right and climb up to the right-hand large pocket, then step right and follow a shallow corner to the horizontal break. Move right along this and finish on the left.
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1985
Rating: 2
Start just right of Green Wall and climb delicately up and right to a peg. Keep left of the peg and gain the overlap and second peg by some tricky moves. Finish either up the centre of the upper wall or up the left arête.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1974
Rating: 0
The block-filled crack on the right.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1980-85)
Rating: 1
A stiff unprotected problem direct up the wall right of Dinah, at the upper limit of its grade. The initial crux section can be avoided by gaining the line from six metres up Dinah (E1, 5b).
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1964
Rating: 0
Right again the main quarry floor rises, and just left of an overhang is a crack. Climb this for eight metres, until it is possible to traverse right and finish up Jean.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1980
Rating: 0
Get your leg over the roof between Ruby and Jean and continue direct to the break, passing a doubtful block. Finish up Ruby.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1964
Rating: 1
Gain the undercut groove just to the right, either direct, or by a traverse from the left side of the overhang. Follow the groove to the horizontal fault, then finish up the short broken groove on the right.
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1982
Rating: 0
Climb the steep thin cracks right of Jean, direct.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1974
Rating: 0
Right again is a pod at nine metres. Start below this and climb diagonally right (very poor peg) to a large ledge. Step back left and enter the pod with difficulty, then continue to the top.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1986
Rating: 0
Start two metres left of the arête and reach the ledge on Eccles` Escalator via a problem wall. Pass the peg above by tricky moves (use of the arête is only for wimps).
Grade: | First Ascent: -1964
Rating: 0
Gain the ledge on the right-hand side of the wall from the right, then follow a series of undercut ledges on the left. Steep!
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1971
Rating: 0
A high-level traverse of The Allotment area along the obvious dirty horizontal break. From the top of Eccles` Escalator, follow the break leftwards until about four metres from Grotty Muckden. A finish can be made rightwards up a short groove. Belay at will, but make sure that you have made it out first.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: ?
Rating: 0
An alternative traverse. Starts up Jean and traverses left at half-height, along a line of holds to finish down Pot-Pourri. Good pendulum possibilities for the second!.