This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Introductory Bay

  • 1 - Introductory Crack

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1970
    Rating: 0

    Where the rocks first gain a respectable height there is a wide, broken crack. Follow this and the rib above.

  • 2 - Southland`s Scoop

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1970
    Rating: 0

    A deep scoop five metres to the left. Climb to a big grass ledge on the left, then go up the wall, working right to a short, wide crack to the top. Or climb direct to the top from the scoop at HS.

  • 3 - Stilton

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1970/1975-79)
    Rating: 0

    Three metres left of the scoop, twin cracks lead to the ledge, then finish up a short wall.

  • 4 - Blue Stilton

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1987
    Rating: 0

    Climb Stilton to a pegged break on the left. Traverse left and finish for Double Gloucester.

  • 5 - Double Gloucester

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (1975-79)
    Rating: 0

    Two metres to the left climb the crack in the leaning wall to reach the large ledge, then finish as Stilton.

  • 6 - Caerphilly

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (1975-79)
    Rating: 0

    The broken groove on the left leads to a triangular block just below the large ledge, then pull right on to the ledge and finish as for Stilton.

  • 7 - Puff Pastry

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1997
    Rating: 0

    Climb the broken groove which forms the angle of the bay, then finish up the short corner above.

  • 8 - Flaky Pastry

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (1986-87)
    Rating: 0

    A direct line up the centre of the wall just to the right of Flake Wall`s start.

  • 9 - Flake Wall

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1970
    Rating: 1

    This is the short wall at right-angles to the previous climbs, and facing the quarry entrance. Start at the left arĂȘte and go slightly right to gain a detached flake above a horizontal crack. Climb this, then move left to a ledge on the arĂȘte and finish on the right of this.

  • 10 - Blossom

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1970
    Rating: 0

    Climb cracks in the right wall of the gully.