This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (1979-83)
Rating: 0
Step left on to the wall and climb the flake and crack just to the right of the arête (peg).
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (1979-83)
Rating: 0
Climb the right-hand side of the short wall below and right of Neighbourhood Threat.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1979-83)
Rating: 0
Climb the thin crack on the left to a pod finish.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1984
Rating: 0
The long arête is climbed on its right side with runners in Neighbourhood Threat.
Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1986
Rating: 0
Climb the wall between the previous route and the corner by a faint groove and finish rightwards. Side runners in Dickie`s Meadow.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1975
Rating: 0
Climbs the obvious corner, just left of the arête.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1996
Rating: 0
Climb the next, short arête to the ledge, then continue up the middle of the blank-looking wall above on improving holds, to finish up the arête just right of Insipidity.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1976
Rating: 1
Go up the short corner on the left, then step left and climb the impressive corner groove, moving left to the arête to finish.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1985
Rating: 1
Climb the technical lower arête, left of Insipidity, to the ledge then follow the slightly easier upper arête to the top.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1976
Rating: 1
Climb the long corner groove, moving right at the top to finish.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1985
Rating: 2
A rising right-to-left traverse across Wood Buttress, that takes in some of the best climbing. Start just left of Wednesday Corner, move up, and traverse diagonally left to a peg. Continue towards a second peg (in God Save the Queen), move left and climb up for a couple of metres to an exit left along a stiff finger traverse into Ten Minutes Before etc. Worm up that route to finish.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (1979-83)
Rating: 0
The obvious crackline which starts from ledges just left of Wednesday Corner.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1986
Rating: 0
Climb the crack between Bag of Bones and Niff-Niff.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1979-83)
Rating: 0
Climb the wall/crack just right of Gallows Pole.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1976
Rating: 2
A typical gritstone quarry climb that combines good moves and interesting positions. Start directly beneath a wooden sleeper which overlaps the top of the crag, and follow a vague crackline to finish just left of the pole.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (1975-79)
Rating: 1
All stand and start! Start two metres farther left and follow a crackline to the top.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1983
Rating: 1
Three metres to the left of GStQ, up the wall to the ledges on TMBtW. After a quick step left to protection, go back again before launching up the centre of the headwall to a thin crack. This is then followed to the top, after clipping the peg on the right.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1976
Rating: 1
Follow God but not the Queen for six metres, then take an obvious line of ledges which lead to a niche. Move past a peg to the arête, then go back right to finish. A direct start is possible at 5b.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1987-90)
Rating: 0
Climb the direct start to TMBtW, then delicately move left and climb the thin crack right of the arête.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (1979-83)
Rating: 2
Excellent climbing up the terminal left arête of the buttress, easing in its upper reaches.
Grade: 6c | First Ascent: -1986
Rating: 3
Another excellent but rather grim route up the wall right of Zoot Chute direct to a peg. Then move right to gain a vague groove and desperate moves up the thin slab above which lead to a welcome ledge. Finish up Zoot Chute (peg).