This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1993
Rating: 0
Climb the wall left of the corner stepping in from the right above the first overhang, (peg).
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1975
Rating: 2
The wide crack on the left. Although a little loose at the top, the jamming crack is irresistible.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1982
Rating: 3
Superb wall climbing to the left of White Out. Climb the wall to a ledge at three metres, then step left from the left side of this ledge to gain a foothold above an overlap and climb straight up the exposed wall, passing a peg on the right at two-thirds-height. A large friend (or even a Friend) in White Out, might inspire confidence to tackle the initial overlap.
Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1982
Rating: 3
Undoubtedly the centrepiece of the quarry, and one of the finest arêtes on gritstone. Ascend the striking arête starting on the right, past two pegs of dubious worth, to a thrilling finish on sloping holds.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1976
Rating: 3
A classic thrutch-and-grope up the off-width crack splitting the buttress. Good protection but it is still a thought-provoking lead.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1986
Rating: 1
Start just left of Chalk Lightning and climb a short wall to a crack. Go up this to a sloping mantelshelf (crux) and a break above (Friends). Attack the wall above, trending right at the top.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1996
Rating: 1
Climb the crack/chimney just left on excellent jugs (finish here at VS, 4c), moving boldly right at the top of the chimney to finish in a superb position up the right-hand side of the overhanging arête. Photogenic.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1984
Rating: 0
Gain and climb the next groove/chimney to the left, either direct, or from easy rock on the left.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1996
Rating: 2
The outrageously leaning block succumbs to the fast, furious and bold approach. Climb direct up the overhanging tower from below. A 1/2 Friend protects the top move.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1996
Rating: 0
Climb Gnat Attack until it is possible to move left and finish up the deep crack bounding the tower on its left.
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1984
Rating: 0
Situated above the ledge on the end of the prow; climb easily up stepped rock just left of Gnat Attack on to The Diving Board, then spring up the dogleg crack in the wall above, continuing direct where the crack sneaks off left.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1986
Rating: 0
A route which completely encompasses the full spectrum of fear. Start from the upper ledge (the one above The Diving Board) and climb the roadrunner-pinnacle-type roof on the top of Red Prow. To second the route is not to have lived – but at least you won`t risk death!
Grade: 5a,4c,4c | First Ascent: -1996
Rating: 2
An enjoyable expedition with interesting and varied climbing on each pitch. The start is reached from a boulder when the pond is low, or by a short traverse at other times.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
Rating:
Climb the right-hand arête on the end of Red Prow to a belay on The Diving Board, below a dogleg crack in the wall above.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
Rating:
Climb the dogleg crack, then traverse airily, but easily, rightwards round the arête into a corner. Climb this and belay below the formidable overhang.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
Rating:
Climb the right-hand arête on its left, then swing right to finish over the overhanging arête.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1986
Rating: 0
Climb the left arête on the end of the Red Prow, then the continuation arête and finish up the easy ramp left of the previous route.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1975
Rating: 0
Situated round the back of the Red Prow. When the pool is full the start can be reached by abseil. Start in the corner and climb a rib to a thin crack, then follow this to a ledge. Step right and go up the crack above to a ledge and large blocks, then finish easily up a ramp on the left.