This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Lonely Wall

  • 90 - Initiation

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1979
    Rating: 1

    Climb the obvious crack which splits the smooth, grey wall on the right.

  • 91 - Long Distance Runner

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1993
    Rating: 1

    Although close to the previous route, the climbing is excellent, being both technical and exciting. Ascend the blunt arête and crack immediately left, with a peg at half-height.

  • 92 - Changing of the Guards

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating: 1

    Climb the steep wall four metres to the left, to a peg runner. Make a long reach rightwards to a crack and climb this (crux) to gain a groove, then move left across a large ledge to the base of a thin crack. Finish up this on good finger jams.

  • 93 - Surfin` Bird

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 1

    Start eight metres to the left, past a dirty chimney. Ascend the centre of the buttress via cracks and ledges to a large ledge beneath prominent roofs. Surmount the lower roof at its centre, trending slightly left above the next overhang in a wild position on good holds to a superb finish.

  • 94 - The Water Margin

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating: 1

    Start at a shallow, flaky groove that forms the right side of a clean wall. Climb the groove to a large ledge at mid-height, then traverse up and right to a corner. Step back left to a ragged crack and follow this, trending left up the leaning top wall.

  • 95 - Mental Mantel

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 1

    Technical climbing leads to an interesting mantel, but round the arête there lurks a sting in the tail. Start two metres to the left, in the centre of the clean wall, at a small arrow and climb to a difficult mantelshelf on to sloping ledges. Step left, around the arête and finish up the short jamming crack.

  • 96 - Nasty Little Lonely

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (1979-83)
    Rating: 0

    Start behind a large birch tree at the left side of Lonely Wall. Climb the loose pillars just right of a smooth red wall. Pass a peg to reach a disintegrating ledge, then an obvious traverse left leads to a fine finish up a groove. Serious.

  • 97 - Lucky Heather

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 2

    A bold proposition, which has seen many top-rope rescues and snivelling traverses off to the banking. Make a series of boulder-problem-type moves up the left side of the left arête of the red wall, then swing right to a gripping heathery finish. It is no place to `linger`!