This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Higher Red Wall

  • 135 - The Razor`s Edge

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1997
    Rating: l<

    The short knife-edged arête six metres to the left. Scary owing to the brittle nature of the edge.

  • 136 - Crack

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1990
    Rating: 0

    Eight metres to the left is the shallow right-facing corner/groove beside Wormhole. A couple of metres to the right of this climb the easy wall.

  • 137 - Wormhole

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1990
    Rating: 0

    Two metres to the left, immediately right of a corner groove, close inspection should reveal a curious drill-hole running the height of the crag. Climb the wall via this and the shallow corner/groove above. Worth doing, if only to inspect the wormhole.

  • 138 - Think Light

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1997
    Rating: 0

    Seven metres to the left is a vertical crackline formed by a large block/pedestal on its left. Finish up the flake and groove above.

  • 139 - State of Awareness

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1997
    Rating: 0

    Climb the groove formed by the left side of the block, until a step left enables a ledge on the arête to be gained. Continue up the arête.

  • 140 - Dodger

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 0

    Left of the arête is a deep crack. Climb this, dodging the loose blocks.

  • 141 - Malvinas

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 1

    The original grade of the climb is in the name of the route. Sink your jams into this one! Climb the wall just to the left into the obvious leaning corner.

  • 142 - Centre of Gravity

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1997
    Rating: 0

    As for Malvinas to the ledge, then move left and finish up the arête.

  • 143 - Desert Dust

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    Three metres to the left is another corner. Climb this then finish up a wide crack.

  • 144 - Dizzy the Desert Snake

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 2

    Long reaches lead to a thin crux, which will sort out the men from the boys. On the left there is a thin crack at four metres. This is gained by a jug on the left and is then followed to a large platform. Finish up the wall above.

  • 145 - Third Time Lucky

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1997
    Rating: 1

    A pleasant and technical slab route with a good landing. Start just left of a grotty crack. Climb the hairline crack until a move right brings a good footledge for a rest. Traverse left for three metres to reach a thin ledge, then mantel on this and make a thin pull to gain the ledge above and an easy finish.

  • 146 - Why Climb Right?

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    Four metres farther left is a slab. Start in the middle of the rubble cone and mantel at two metres, then traverse right to finish.

  • 147 - Why Climb Left?

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    From the initial mantelshelf on Why Climb Right, trend leftwards to finish.