LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Empty Quarter -Lower Tier

  • 103 - Just for the Finger Jam

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating: 0

    Climb the thin finger-crack with big ledges on the left and finish over a block.

  • 104 - Bone Shaker

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating: 0

    Eight metres farther left, climb the wide flake crack.

  • 105 - Lazy Bones

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating: 0

    Just to the left climb the arête on juggy holds.

  • 106 - Kamikaze Coconut

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (Pre-1979)
    Rating: 0

    10 metres farther left ascend the right-facing corner.

  • 107 - Precious Cargo

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating: 2

    A difficult couple of moves up the left-hand side of the arête on the left leads to an enjoyable finish in a fine position.

  • 108 - Alvin`s Wild West Rodeo Show

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating: 0

    The cracks in the wall immediately to the left, starting up the right-hand crack of the block.

  • 109 - Swamp Dog

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating: 1

    Pleasant bridging up the corner on the left past an overlap.

  • 110 - Space Between my Ears

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1977
    Rating: 0

    The stepped arête on the left. Climb the crack on the right of the arête, then finish on the left using a large detached flake.

  • 111 - Empty Arête

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating: 0

    Start from blocks at a slightly higher level, then climb the arête on its right on widely-spaced holds. Step right using an `interesting` block, then continue to the top via a very short chimney.

  • 112 - Organ Grinder

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating: 1

    Start in the centre of the wall, directly below the open corner. Climb the bottom wall until it is possible to gain the initial groove by an awkward, balancy move. The groove above eases, but footholds are widely spaced.

  • 113 - Monkey Trick

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1992
    Rating: 0

    Three metres farther left there is a wide-angled corner. Climb the obvious corner crack (ledge at its base) to an overhanging headwall past an obvious thread (in-situ).

  • 114 - Vulture

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating: 0

    Climb the right-hand side of broken blocks and make delicate moves up the wall just left of some paint streaks.

  • 115 - Double or Quits

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating: 0

    Climb the left-hand side of the broken blocks to an interesting mantelshelf move one metre left of the paint streaks.

  • 116 - Street Legal

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1998
    Rating: 0

    Climb the left arête on its right-hand side, with good protection on the crux.