LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Triple Bob Buttress

  • 95 - Gold Digger

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (1975-79)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the thin crack just to the right of the right arête of the grey buttress and finish just left of the arête.

  • 95a - Gold Digger Direct

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -2000
    Rating: 0

    Climb the arête direct with a hard move from the first ledge, then finish up the parent route.

  • 96 - Tinkerbell

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1966
    Rating: 0

    Start on the right-hand side of the Triple Bobs and climb an easy groove to a large ledge at mid-height. Step left on to a slab, then climb this and the thin crack above to a finishing mantel.

  • 97 - Triple Bob Major

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1965
    Rating: 0

    The stability of the Bobs is open to doubt. Either climb the blocks, or the crack on their left, or a combination of both. In any case arrive at a large grass ledge at nine metres; cross it and climb another nine metres of easier rocks to the top.

  • 98 - Tocsin Wall

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (1975-79)
    Rating: 0

    This route will set a few alarm bells ringing. The steep little wall left of the Triple Bobs is climbed to an easy finish.

  • 99 - Cad Eye the Heather

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1992
    Rating: 0

    Climb the wall on the left via a faint crackline to finish at a small terrace.

  • 100 - Bellringer

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 1

    Climb the obvious thin crack which splits the wall left of the corner.

  • 101 - Ding Dong

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 0

    Immediately left, on the arête is an orange groove. Climb this, moving awkwardly over bulges to ledges, then go directly to the top.

  • 102 - Tintinnabulation Direct

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1968
    Rating: 0

    Start from an alcove immediately left and climb direct to join the crack and finish up the top groove of Tintinnabulation.

  • 103 - Tintinnabulation

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1966
    Rating: 0

    A line up the shattered wall on the left. Start from a distinctive pedestal and climb the wide crack for a short way until it is possible to move into a shallow cave on the right. Finish up the broken groove above.

  • 104 - Blueberry Hill

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 1

    From the pedestal, climb the thin, left-leading flake crack on the left by an interesting start, then continue up to a deep niche. Traverse right across the front of a square buttress (peg), to short finishing groove.

  • 105 - Not in This Life

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1997
    Rating: 0

    Immediately to the left of the pedestal is a shallow groove-cum-crack. Climb this, passing through two small overhangs, finishing up a short chimney at the top. Care is needed on unstable rock above the overhangs.

  • 106 - Brick Thick

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1997
    Rating: 0

    Start one metre left and climb the leftward-slanting undercut flake/groove (brick thickness at its lowest point) and the wall above the small overhang to finish to the left of a small tree.

  • 107 - For Whom the Bell Tolls

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (1975-79)
    Rating: 0

    Start three metres left of the groove and climb into a wide alcove. Step left and finish up a curving crack.

  • 108 - Plain Bob

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1964
    Rating: 2

    This was one of the first routes at the back of the quarry, and it remains one of the best at this grade. A couple of metres left is a sharp rib. Climb the right face of this to the top, then go easily to a short curving crack and follow this to the top.

  • 109 - Plain Bob Variant

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1964
    Rating: 0

    The layback crack that forms a groove on the left of the rib.

  • 110 - Unappealing

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1964
    Rating: 0

    Left of the previous climb a series of small ledges leads eventually to the top.