This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

New Wall

  • 21 - Novelty

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1997
    Rating: 0

    Start five metres right of the lowest point of the wall, directly below an overhang at the top. Climb a very thin crack and the wall to a peg below the overhang, then move left to a bolt belay.

  • 22 - Crack `n` Up

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1995
    Rating: 0

    Climb the next crack directly to the bolt belay.

  • 23 - Counter Insurgency

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1988
    Rating: 0

    Climb the wide crack which rises from the lowest point on the wall, with surprisingly awkward moves at the start. At the break step right and go up cracks to a square chimney above, then traverse left to finish.

  • 24 - Crossover

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 1

    Gain and climb the thin crack which starts one metre farther left, to reach the break. Traverse to the twin crack, then take a diagonal line leftwards to finish at the top of the arĂȘte.

  • 25 - Split Screen

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 2

    Sustained climbing up the steep wall. Just left are twin cracks, climb these to the break and continue up the cracks above.

  • 26 - Emotional Paralysis

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 2

    A good, strenuous route, which is sustained throughout. At the left-hand side of the wall is a thin crack, follow this to the break (peg). Swing right then climb the exposed wall above on good slots.

  • 27 - Slab Dab

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    At the top of the left-hand banking is a short chimney, climb this until it is possible to step right to finish up the obvious flake above.