LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Main Buttress

  • 15 - Dog Lead Crack

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1995
    Rating: 0

    [24] The wide crack at the left side of a clean wall.

  • 16 - Dog Lead Ramp

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1995
    Rating: 0

    [24] The obvious right-leading ramp, starting at the same point as Dog Lead Crack. Protection is poor.

  • 17 - Rampant Digit

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1992
    Rating: 0

    [23] The V-shaped groove at the right side of the clean wall.

  • 18 - Greyhound Track

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1972
    Rating: 0

    [22] The next groove.

  • 19 - Green Toothbrush

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1995
    Rating: 0

    The thin crack up the centre of the wall between Greyhound Track and Finger Five.

  • 20 - Finger Five

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (1973-74)
    Rating: 0

    [21] To the right are two cracks which form the left corner of the higher section. Climb these.

  • 21 - Stopgap

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1995
    Rating: 0

    [20] The obvious deep V-groove. Exit on the left.

  • 22 - Synergy

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1995
    Rating: 2

    [19] An easy start, but the finish is steeper than it looks. At the centre of the wall is a large cave at two levels. From the lower cave, hand-traverse left then move up to a jamming crack and follow this to the top.

  • 23 - Coppice Cave

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1975
    Rating: 0

    [19] Gain the higher cave and exit by the left crack.

  • 24 - Stron

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1975
    Rating: 0

    [18] As for Coppice Cave, but exit via the right-hand crack.

  • 25 - Panic Attack

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1995
    Rating: 0

    [17] Starting four metres right of the cave, and climb twin cracks to two overlaps at half-height. Step left and finish up the thin, left-slanting crack above.

  • 26 - Screaming Abdabs

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1977
    Rating: 0

    [17] From the twin cracks on Panic Attack, follow the deep crack that trends right through the roof, taking care not to dislodge the whole rockface.