LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

The Equator

  • 34 - Tropical Corner

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1977
    Rating: 0

    The chimney at the right-hand corner of The Equator.

  • 35 - Monsoon

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: (1983-86)
    Rating: 0

    Start one metre left of Tropical Corner. Gain an obvious high jug and gain a flake on the left to finish.

  • 36 - Too Hard for Greg Rimmer

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1984
    Rating: 0

    Start about four metres left of the corner, directly below an arête at the top of a crag. Use a small finger slot to reach a faint flake, then finish above.

  • 37 - Edge of Extinction

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1985
    Rating: 0

    To the left is a right-leading flake/crack; take this and the short groove to finish (peg).

  • 38 - Floodgate

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 0

    The crack one metre to the left.

  • 39 - Blue Nile

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1977
    Rating: 0

    Left again is a ledge at two metres. From this climb the converging cracks to an awkward finish.

  • 40 - Luxor

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1979
    Rating: 0

    On the left is a protruding column of rock at half-height, pierced by a borehole. Gain the niche on the right of this then keep to the right and finish up a short hanging groove.

  • 41 - White Nile

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1977
    Rating: 1

    Pleasant, well protected climbing, with some unusual holds. Start in the corner and climb the left side of the column, then continue past the borehole runner on Luxor.

  • 42 - Stranded Passenger

    Grade: 6c | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 1

    Just left is a letter-box at three metres. Gain this, then move right and follow a thin crack and the wall above to the top.

  • 43 - African Queen

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1977
    Rating: 2

    A good introduction to jamming techniques. Four metres right of the obvious arête is a crack which forms an inverted Y. Climb this to a ledge and cave, then continue in the same line to the top.

  • 44 - Tigris

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    Gain a curving flake from African Queen, or go direct, and finish up the arête and a corner above.

  • 45 - Euphrates

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 2

    Climb the arête to large ledges near the top, then finish up the corner above. The holds on the arête are small and there is no protection until the break is reached.

  • 46 - Ganges

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 2

    An out-of-balance move relatively high up, makes this a thought-provoking exercise. Two metres left of the arête a line of small ledges leads to a large neb. Follow these (peg) to the break, then step right and continue up a corner to the top.

  • 46a - Pitch 1

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    From the foot of Amazon a rather artificial eliminate can be made just right of the crack.

  • 47 - Amazon

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1977
    Rating: 1

    Follow the wide crack which leads left from the Ganges Delta. At the top step right, then exit left. Belay stakes well above.

  • 48 - Brasilia

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (1978/1981)
    Rating: 1

    The crack system which splits the centre of the steep wall on the left of the deep corner. Climb cracks to reach a small groove which can be followed to a sandy cave. Scramble off to the left.

  • 48a - The Lovely Charlotte

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Starts at an arete on the left and climbs via a peg and a groove to a monster jug. Finish over the overlap past an old nest.

  • 49 - Machu Picchu

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 0

    The blocky, unappealing groove that slants leftwards on the left side of the steep wall.