This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Lancashire Wall

  • 65 - July Wakes

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1974
    Rating: 0

    Start in the centre of the first wall and climb this, veering right and finishing up the arête which bounds the left side of the Lancashire Wall recess.

  • 66 - Dawn Chorus

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1987
    Rating: 1

    The arête right of July Wakes on its left-hand side, with two pegs.

  • 67 - Milton Friedman ate my Lunch

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1991
    Rating: 1

    Climb the arête of Dawn Chorus on its right side and watch out for the barn door.

  • 68 - Rave On! Boris Yeltsin

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1991
    Rating: 1

    Follow the very thin horizontal crack in the wall left of Mudlark, until it is possible to finish up Milton Friedman.

  • 69 - Mudlark

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1975
    Rating: 0

    The short corner on the left side of Lancashire Wall. Move left at half-height then regain the corner above.

  • 70 - Vixen

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1975
    Rating: 1

    Right of the deep corner some cracks split the wall. Climb the left of these.

  • 71 - Foxhead

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1975
    Rating: 0

    The right-hand crack leads to the horizontal break, just left of the `Fox`s Head`, then finish up the wall above as for Vixen.

  • 72 - Gulag Archipelago

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1976/1979)
    Rating: 2

    A surprisingly exposed route for its length, even though the crux is low down. Farther right is a conspicuous hanging groove above a shale band. Traverse right along the band (peg above overhang) to the groove. Gain this with interest and continue to the top.

  • 73 - East Lancs

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1976
    Rating: 2

    Steady and well protected VS climbing. From the left of the grassy ledge climb a groove to a small overhang at four metres, then traverse left below this to a hanging groove on the left of a rib. Finish up this (crux). A direct finish has been top-roped, but it has little merit.

  • 74 - Legendary Lancashire Heroes

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1980
    Rating: 2

    An exposed traverse of the suspended section of Lancs Wall going from right to left. Start up East Lancs and continue along the obvious horizontal crackline from the overhang at four metres into Gulag Archipelago. Awkward moves left then lead to better holds and the finishing crack of Vixen.

  • 75 - Lancashire Lad

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1974
    Rating: 1

    The obvious groove which starts just to the right.

  • 76 - Yorkshire Queer

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    Two metres right of the next corner ascend the leaning crack.

  • 77 - Psychlops

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1982
    Rating: 1

    Takes the curving crack immediately left of the large `eye`. Gain the crack and continue strenuously on awkward holds.

  • 78 - Lancashire Lass

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1974
    Rating: 0

    The corner/groove on the left of the airy step.

  • 79 - Los Endos

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1996

    Start just right, below an overhang at half-height. Gain the overhang and pass it on its right, then finish up the arête.