LANCASHIRE ROCK

55 - Rhododendron Arête

Grade: 6a | First Ascent: (1967/1979)
Rating: 3

Originally aided at A2. Although the arête looks very blank, there are actually plenty of good holds. However, although most of the route is well protected, the top section can feel a little bold. Follow the left arête of the amphitheatre, starting up a crack slightly right of the arête, to a ledge, then continue past a small overlap to a very small ledge below impending rock. Go up and right to another ledge, then step left and finish up the arête.

56 - Cave Route

Grade: 4b,4a,– | First Ascent: (Early 1950s)
Rating: 2

A must for easier-grade visitors.

56.1 - Pitch 1

Grade: 4b | First Ascent:
Rating:

Climb the short steep slab at the left of the amphitheatre, then go up a corner groove to a small overhang. Move left to the cave, then climb direct to a large ledge (peg belay).

56.2 - Pitch 2

Grade: 4a | First Ascent:
Rating:

Traverse left over poor rock, then continue the traverse at a slightly higher ledge until it is possible to step around an arête to Wobbling Groove. Go up for a move, then move left and up easily to a large ledge on pitch three of Zig Zag.

56.3 - Pitch 3

Grade: | First Ascent:
Rating:

Ascend the corner as Easy Route to a muddy ledge on the right, then either go up the crack in the steep slab which overhangs the corner, or climb the crack on its right.

57 - Rhododendron Buttress

Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1955/1976)
Rating: 3

A classic route, originally an A1, which takes a dramatic line directly up the front face of the buttress. From the right end of the first belay ledge on Cave Route, then cross the wall up left to a good ledge below the overhang. Surmount this by a crack and continue to the sandy break, step left then follow the thin crack (crux) to the top.

58 - War of Attrition

Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1976
Rating: 2

A fine climb, which is basically a variation of Rhododendron Buttress. From the good foothold over the roof on Rhododendron Buttress, traverse left with difficulty to below a right-slanting overlap. Surmount the overlap via a thin crack, then climb the groove and short wall above to finish up a finger crack on the left of Rhododendron Buttress.

59 - Biodegradable Man

Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1986
Rating: 2

An impressive roof climb. From the second pitch of Cave Route climb up to the roof (old bolts), then swing right (peg) and make some exhilarating moves over the roof to gain the slanting overlap of War of Attrition. Continue up this to finish.

60 - Strong`s Flake

Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1973
Rating: 1

From the belay ledge of Cave Route, climb the massive flake on the left, which rises from the left side of the buttress. Friable rock to start.

61 - Finger Traverse

Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1965
Rating: 0

Climb the short layback crack just left of the start of Cave Route, then finger-traverse left with increasing difficulty until the ledge widens. Climb the corner on the left, then either step round to Bowker`s Crack, or finish on the right.

62 - Pandora`s Box

Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1980
Rating: 0

A rather artificial route, but interesting and varied. Start below the left end of the Finger Traverse ledge, and gain the ledge by a technical mantel up a scoop on the arête, or more easily by using a chipped hold on the right. Move right, and climb the thin crack until it is possible to swing right and up into the cave of Cave Route. Hand-traverse left to the top of Finger Traverse, then step back right and climb to the large ledge on Cave Route.

63 - Bowker`s Crack

Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (1960-61)
Rating: 1

Just left is a short wall. Climb the right corner of this.

64 - Speech Impediment

Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1979
Rating: 0

Takes the zig-zag crack between Bowker`s Crack and Cyclops, finishing up a blank-looking wall.

65 - Cyclops

Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1964
Rating: 0

The crack at the left side of the wall.

66 - Visions of Jan

Grade: 4a,5b,4c | First Ascent: -1977
Rating: 1

66.1 - Pitch 1

Grade: 4a | First Ascent:
Rating:

Ascend the corner immediately left of Cyclops to a ledge, then go up to the large ledge above. Finish at a larger ledge on the right. Nut belay.

66.2 - Pitch 2

Grade: 5b | First Ascent:
Rating:

Scramble rightwards easily then go up to the base of the shallow overhanging corner. Ascend this past a peg on the left wall to a ledge at the top. Tree and nut belays on the left.

66.3 - Pitch 3

Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
Rating:

Follow the left-slanting groove to a ledge, then surmount the overhang which is split by a wide crack, and scramble through rhododendrons to finish.

67 - Crack `A` Jack

Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1991
Rating: 0

From the nut belay at the top of Visions of Jan (pitch 1) climb the cracked wall above to a ledge and a sandy break on Choice Exit. Continue up the left side of a shield and from its top traverse right to a tree on the arête. Easy ground above leads to a finish up Visions of Jan.

68 - Wobbling Groove

Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1976
Rating: 0

Start as for Visions of Jan pitch two. Climb up and left to a ledge on the right of a blunt arête (junction with Cave Route), then follow a thin crack into a shallow scoop. Pull out of this on to a ledge at the start of the traverse on Choice Exit, (peg on right), then move left and go up into a groove and follow this past two pegs. Finish up a groove on the right.

69 - Choice Exit

Grade: 4a,5a | First Ascent: -1967
Rating: 1

69.1 - Pitch 1

Grade: 4a | First Ascent:
Rating:

Climb the corner as for Visions of Jan to a ledge, then move up and left to another ledge and belay below a groove.

69.2 - Pitch 2

Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
Rating:

Climb the groove to a small ledge, then go up to a sandy break and traverse right along this past a small ledge (peg) to a tree belay on the right.

70 - Easy Route

Grade: | First Ascent: (Early 1950s)
Rating: 0

70.1 - Pitch 1

Grade: | First Ascent:
Rating:

Start six metres to the left, at a short, easy-angled slab. Gain a ledge on the left, step right, then reach the large ledge above, either direct, or (easier) by traversing right and then mantelshelving back left.

70.2 - Pitch 2

Grade: | First Ascent:
Rating:

Proceed up a series of ledges in the centre of the bay. At the top of the corner make a muddy landing on the right, then step back left across the corner and finish through undergrowth.

71 - Easier Route

Grade: | First Ascent: (Early 1950s)
Rating: 0

71.1 - Pitch 1

Grade: | First Ascent:
Rating:

The obvious weakness four metres left of Easy Route.

71.2 - Pitch 2

Grade: | First Ascent:
Rating:

As for Easy Route to the muddy ledge, then walk right along this finish up an obvious short break.

72 - Zig Zag

Grade: 4b,4c,5a,– | First Ascent: (1965/1966)
Rating: 1

Start below the short corner which marks the junction between Rhododendron Buttress and Overhanging Crack areas.

72.1 - Pitch 1

Grade: 4b | First Ascent:
Rating:

From a small ledge at two metres, traverse right on small ledges until an awkward move round the arête makes it easy to gain the ledge above. Belay as for Easy Route pitch two.

72.2 - Pitch 2

Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
Rating:

On the right of the ledge is a corner, (hook belay). Climb the corner then go easily up to a large ledge on the left. Bolt belay.

72.3 - Pitch 3

Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
Rating:

The hanging groove on the right leads to a tree.

72.4 - Pitch 4

Grade: | First Ascent:
Rating:

The stepped wall behind.

73 - Steppin` in the Slide Zone

Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1986
Rating: 1

Start at Easy Route`s first belay. On the left is a borehole in a blunt arête; climb this (tape) and make an interesting move on to the sloping ledge above. Climb ledges then continue up the thin crack in the wall above to a large pocket. Leap for the top.