LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Overhanging Crack Area

  • 74 - Che

    Grade: 4c,5b | First Ascent: (1971/1979)
    Rating: 1

  • 74.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Climb the corner made with the large leaning wall on the left, to a large ledge. Nut belay.

  • 74.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Step left on to the leaning wall, then gain the hanging groove on the right, and climb this to a ledge. Go up to the obvious inverted triangular niche then finish straight up.

  • 75 - Overhanging Crack

    Grade: 5b,5a | First Ascent: (1964/1965)
    Rating: 1

  • 75.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    The deep crack up the left side of the leaning wall leads to a large ledge and tree belay on the left. Awkward to start.

  • 75.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Scramble up and left to a higher ledge then climb the T-shaped crack making an exit to the left.

  • 76 - Poo

    Grade: 6c | First Ascent: -1988
    Rating: 2

    The obvious hanging groove on the left gives some of the best and most technical climbing in the quarry. Start slightly left of the groove at a small ledge, pad (crawl) across the hanging slab below the overhang (bolt on lip), then make a hard move to reach a small hold over the lip. Palm up the arête (dynamically) to a hold at mid-height (bolt). A bewildering sequence palming the groove leads to a good edge and scary, but easier climbing to finish.

  • 77 - The Black Tripe Trip

    Grade: 6b,6a | First Ascent: -1991
    Rating: 0

  • 77.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Climb the centre of the scooped wall on the left to a ledge, then go up and right to the tree on Overhanging Crack. Climb easily to the ledge above, bolt belay on the left.

  • 77.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Climb up to an obvious V-slot at the top.

  • 78 - Black Pudding Team Special

    Grade: 5c,5c | First Ascent: (1977/1981)
    Rating: 2

    This route gives good climbing throughout its length.

  • 78.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    The peg-scarred arête on the left. Climb the arête, exiting on the right to a large ledge and tree on Overhanging Crack. Climb easily to the ledge above, bolt belay on left.

  • 78.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Make a delicate traverse left to the arête and go up this past pegs.

  • 79 - Drupe

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: (1967/1983)
    Rating: 0

    Round the left arête of the leaning wall is a crack, climb this to the break, then continue up the wall and over the overhang on bolts.

  • 80 - Ergonome`s Enigma

    Grade: A2 | First Ascent: -1969
    Rating: 0

    Ascend the thin crack two metres left into a niche above the overlap. Leave the niche by a crack on the left and follow this to the roof. Traverse right under the roof for two metres, to a thin crack splitting it, go over this then the overhang above to finish up the scooped wall.

  • 81 - Suicidal Tendency

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1968/1970)
    Rating: 0

    The route follows the rising break which cuts across the face below the initial overlap of Drupe. Start on the left and finish at Overhanging Crack.

  • 82 - Device Dièdre

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1971
    Rating: 0

    The corner which limits the wall on its left. Finish to the right.

  • 83 - Preston Guild

    Grade: 4c/A2,A1 | First Ascent: (1967/1969)
    Rating: 0

    An uninspiring peg route which girdles the Overhanging Wall Area

  • 83.1 - Pitch 1

    Grade: 4c/A2 | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    From the left side of the first belay ledge on Zig Zag, step left on to the leaning wall as for Che and continue leftwards until pegs have to be resorted to in a faint crack. Belay at the top of Overhanging Crack, pitch 1.

  • 83.2 - Pitch 2

    Grade: A1 | First Ascent:
    Rating:

    Climb easily up a large flake to a slightly higher ledge, then go under the overhang of Drupe and follow a line past Ergonome`s Enigma to an obvious exit through the overhangs.