LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

Tree Buttress

  • 3 - Camina

    Grade: | First Ascent: -1976
    Rating: 0

    Start three metres right of the square-cut arête and climb a left-facing corner then the flake crack above.

  • 4 - Lode Star

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1976
    Rating: 1

    Start just to the left and climb past a small capped groove until it is possible to hand-traverse left at a small overlap on to the large ledge on Pot-Pourri. Finish up the arête.

  • 5 - Lode Star Direct

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1996
    Rating: 1

    From the traverse on Lode Star continue up to a small ledge on the right, then cross the wall on the left to finish up the arête.

  • 6 - Pot-Pourri

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1976
    Rating: 1

    Start just to the left of the square-cut arête with a corner groove at its top. Climb to the overlap (peg), then make a long reach to a good hold and continue to the ledge. Finish up the groove above.

  • 7 - Mad Barney

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 0

    Start directly below a hanging corner at the top of the crag. Climb the wall, trending first left, then back right to a finish up the hanging corner.

  • 8 - Bizz Energy

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1983
    Rating: 0

    Left again is a slabby wall which is cut away at its base. Pull on to this wall below an obvious peg (the use of stacked boulders at the start is unethical). Pass the peg and follow the right side of the wall above.

  • 9 - Verboten

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 0

    The large corner on the left.

  • 10 - Sabre

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1981
    Rating: 1

    Climb the sandy wall just right of The Birch to an overhang, then go boldly over this to reach a hanging flake crack, which can be followed to a grassy finish.

  • 11 - The Birch

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1978
    Rating: 3

    A much better route than first appearances might suggest. Start directly below the birch and climb a crack to the overhang. Gain the inverted