This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire
Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1984
Rating: 0
The wall is climbed in the centre of the buttress starting from a ledge at two metres. Pull into a small niche then climb the thin crack above, step left and finish up a large flake.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1995
Rating: 0
A scrappy route up the small section of natural gritstone overlooking the stream which forms the extreme left edge of the quarry. Start below an obvious crack and climb to this, then continue using the crack or the wall just to the left.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1965
Rating: 0
The groove just right to ledges on the right. Finish up a small flake.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1968
Rating: 1
This route is somewhat unique by starting on quarried rock and finishing on natural grit. Start at the left side of the amphitheatre, at the crack nearest the arête. Climb the crack until it is possible to traverse round the arête at half-height, to a small ledge overlooking the stream, finish directly above.
Grade: 4c | First Ascent: -1973
Rating: 1
Start just to the right of the left arête of the next buttress, by a tree close to the rock. Climb the steep crack to a ledge, then continue up just right of the arête.
Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1984
Rating: 0
The weakness three metres right of Quarry Groove, to finish up that route.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1995
Rating:
After rounding the arête it is possible to avoid the natural gritstone by following the awkward right-trending crack that leads to the top of Loony Bin.
Grade: 4b | First Ascent: -1973
Rating: 0
Ascend the centre of the next buttress, cut through the overhang by a V-groove.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1966/1987)
Rating: 1
Start as for Instant Insanity but climb direct to the top by exciting jug pulling. However, note that one of the holds is a little wobbly, so arrange adequate protection just in case.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1976
Rating: 1
Start two metres to the right at an obvious wide crack and follow this to the horizontal break, then step left to a short crack and from the top of this swing right into a niche and exit right at the top.
Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1982
Rating: 1
Follow Kashmir to the horizontal break, then step right to a crack. Climb this, move left to the niche, then exit to the right at the top.
Grade: 5b | First Ascent: (1975-79)
Rating: 0
The leaning block-filled crack on the right.