LANCASHIRE ROCK

This site is a digital copy of the 1997 BMC guidebook to rock climbing in Lancashire

The Quarry

  • 1 - Pockets

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    Start at the foot of the ramp and climb the wall, using the obvious pockets.

  • 2 - Ledgeway

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (Pre-1980)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the ramp, moving left to follow the ledge system to the top.

  • 3 - The Monkey`s Gangway

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (Pre-1980)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the ramp, but step up and right to climb the upper slab direct.

  • 4 - Monkey`s Direct

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 1

    Climb the wall directly to join the finish of Monkey`s Gangway.

  • 5 - Roote`s Arête

    Grade: 5a | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    Climb the faint arête and slab direct.

  • 6 - Roote`s Groove

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (Pre-1980)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the faint groove just right of Roote`s Arête, and finish up the crack above.

  • 7 - Ripper`s Ramp

    Grade: 4b | First Ascent: (Pre-1980)
    Rating: 0

    Start at the ramp to the right of Roote`s Groove and follow it leftwards, then straight up to an overlap. Finish direct.

  • 8 - Spider`s Crack

    Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1980)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the left-slanting crack right of Ripper`s Ramp.

  • 9 - Barry`s Wall

    Grade: 5b | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    Climb the wall on the right and finish up the slab above.

  • 10 - Mad Monkey`s Mantel

    Grade: 5c | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 1

    Start a metre right of Barry`s Wall and mantel on to the large hold at two metres. Finish direct.

  • 11 - The Monkey`s Sand Pit

    Grade: | First Ascent: (Pre-1980)
    Rating: 0

    Climb cracks to the left of the obvious arête to a sandy hole. Finish directly from the hole.

  • 12 - Paddy`s Arête

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (Pre-1980)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the arête to a crack and finish up this.

  • 13 - The Big Greenie

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (Pre-1980)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the big green corner to the overhangs, reach over to good jugs and swing right then finish direct. As its names implies, the corner is often wet and slimy.

  • 14 - Squirrel Nutkin and the Park Warden went to the Three Bears` Underwear Party

    Grade: 6a | First Ascent: -1986
    Rating: 0

    Start a metre right of the corner and climb the slab direct.

  • 15 - Lady C`s Lost Lover

    Grade: 6b | First Ascent: -1988
    Rating: 0

    The slab between Squirrel Nutkin and Randy Gardener`s Groove, via a very thin hairline crack and a slight arête.

  • 16 - The Randy Gardener`s Groove

    Grade: 4a | First Ascent: (Pre-1980)
    Rating: 0

    Climb the groove by a series of mantelshelves, passing a niche.

  • 17 - Where the Hell is Goldilocks?

    Grade: 4c | First Ascent: (Pre-1980)
    Rating: 0

    Climbs the big corner at the meeting of the two walls – desperate when wet, yet seldom dry!