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Ronson Kirkby Area

Towards the right end of the escarpment and beyond the cloak of ashes in front of the crag is a fine clean face having an obvious bulge at half-height and a straight crack running the height of the face on the left of the bulge.

Sunshine Factor :
Afternoon Sun - West Facing
Approach : 15 minutes
Crag Angle : Vertical Face

Grade conversion tableCreate PDF version (BETA)

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(41) Left Wall

Grade: VD First Ascent: (Pre-1991)
Rating: Zero Stars
Start just right of the gully below a left-facing flake at head height. Climb on to a ledge, then climb the flake and slab to the top.

(42) The Rib

Grade: HS 4b First Ascent: (Pre-1991)
Rating: 1 Star -
Start at a faint rib just left of the obvious crack of Wings. Climb the rib via a nice step up using a runnel.

(43) Wings

Grade: VD First Ascent: -1974
Rating: 1 Star -
A very pleasant climb. Climb the groove/crack immediately left of the overhang, with an interesting move at the overhang.

(44) Pegasus

Grade: VS 5a First Ascent: (1975/Pre-1991)
Rating: 1 Star -
Start two metres to the right, directly below a horizontal slot on the lip of the overhang. Climb up to some blocks below the bulge. Climb to the overhang, then pull over on the horizontal slot and reach good holds to gain the upper wall.

(45) Winged Traverse

Grade: VS 5a First Ascent: -1975
Rating: Zero Stars
Start up Pegasus and traverse right below the roof past the `eye` and finish direct where the break widens. A finish can also be made via the `eye` at a similar grade.

(45a) Golden Fleece

Grade: VS 5a First Ascent: -2001 - By: 2001 Feb 25 Calum Berry solo
Rating: Zero Stars
Start between Pegasus and Cyclops. Use a poor undercut on the right to reach a poorer sloper on the left, up to crimps under the roof, then up and over.

(46) Cyclops

Grade: HVS 6a First Ascent: (Pre-1991)
Rating: 2 Star -
The first moves are very problematic, but the roof itself is relatively easy. Start below the small `eye` pocket above the lip at the right-hand end of the bulge. Climb the wall below and slightly right of the `eye` on poor holds to reach the horizontal break. Gain the eye and swarm up the easy face above.

(46a) Medusa

Grade: VS 5a First Ascent: -2001 - By: 2001 Feb 25 Calum Berry solo
Rating: Zero Stars
Just left of Serpent, use an undercut to yard up to the midway break. Finish upwards.

(47) Serpent

Grade: S 4a First Ascent: (Pre-1991)
Rating: 1 Star -
Start just right of the right end of the mid-height bulge below a little, waterworn crack. Climb the crack steeply and gain the sloping crack above the bulge. Foot-traverse left with ease and finish up the centre of the top wall.

(48) Ronson Kirkby

Grade: VD First Ascent: -1974
Rating: Zero Stars
One metre right of Serpent there is a good flake. Climb this to a ledge on the right. Climb directly to the next horizontal break and move left along this to the top.
 

 

 
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