This is the long undercut wall 25 metres right, which gains height and becomes a fine buttress of excellent rock. The upper wall is pure jug-pulling pleasure, but to reach it, some hard work on the bulge at chest-height is necessary.
Sunshine Factor : Afternoon Sun - West Facing Approach : 15 minutes Crag Angle : Vertical Face
Grade: VS 5a First Ascent: -1974 Rating: 1 Star - Start two metres right of the left end of the wall at a slim groove at head-height. Reach up to good holds on a ledge and pull strenuously up the bulge to finish above on parallel, vertical cracks.
(60) Swamp Fever
Grade: HVS 5b First Ascent: (Pre-1991) Rating: Zero Stars Start one metre right, below an obvious right-facing flake hold above the roof. Climb direct to this and the wall above.
(61) Malaria
Grade: HVS 5b First Ascent: (Pre-1991) Rating: Zero Stars Start a metre right below a vertical crack. Reach this with difficulty and continue more easily.
(62) The Lemur`s Tail
Grade: HS 4c First Ascent: (Pre-1991) Rating: 1 Star - Start at the foot of the obvious, thin crack a metre left of a deep groove. Climb the crack and finish up its continuation.
(63) Gibbon Take
Grade: 5a First Ascent: (Pre-1991) Rating: Zero Stars Start five metres right of The Lemur`s Tail. Climb the left-hand of the two parallel cracks which are a metre apart.
(64) No More Monkey Business
Grade: 5a First Ascent: (Pre-1991) Rating: Zero Stars Climb the right-hand crack. Purists can increase the grade to 6b by starting right at the back of the overhang.
(65) Chimp
Grade: HS 4c First Ascent: -1974 Rating: 1 Star - Start at the same point and pull over the bulge at the right slanting crack using good holds, then finish up the face.
(66) Gorilla Berengii
Grade: HS 4c First Ascent: -1974 Rating: 1 Star - Just right and growing from the face is a slim tree. Start a metre left of this tree and pull over the bulge on an excellent flake hold. Easier climbing leads to the final crack.
(67) Gorilla, Gorilla
Grade: VS 4c First Ascent: (Pre-1991) Rating: 2 Star - Start below the slim tree in the centre of the wall. Climb the bulge and pass the tree to reach the horizontal break. Climb directly up the front of the buttress just right of a curving nut-crack. More sustained and finer than its neighbours.
(67a) The Cause
Grade: 6c Start at the back of the roof.
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